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How to use glycolic acid on your face: format, frequency and side effects

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4 minute read

Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that loosens the bonds holding dead cells on the surface, so skin looks smoother and brighter. How you use it depends on the format. A glycolic face wash is rinsed off and suits daily use. A leave-on toner or serum is stronger: start two to three nights a week, never on the same night as retinol, and wear SPF 50 every morning, because AHAs make skin more sun-sensitive.

What is glycolic acid?

Glycolic acid is the smallest alpha hydroxy acid, originally from sugar cane. Because the molecule is small, it works quickly on the outer layer of skin, loosening dead cells so they shed more evenly. The result is smoother texture, a brighter look and, over weeks, softer-looking marks.

How strong it is depends on three things on the label: the percentage, the pH, and how long it stays on the skin. A rinse-off wash is the mildest form, a leave-on toner or serum is stronger, and the peels done in a clinic are stronger again and are not a home product.

How to use glycolic acid, by format

Wash: morning and night, about 30 seconds of massage, rinse, moisturise. Leave-on toner or serum: at night on clean, dry skin, two to three times a week to start, building up slowly; moisturiser after. Every format: SPF 50 the next morning, and no retinol on the same night.

Swipe the table sideways to see every column.

Glycolic acid formats
FormatStrengthHow often to startNotes
Face washMildest, rinsed offMorning and nightRinse with water on retinol nights
TonerMedium, leave-on2–3 nights a weekCotton pad or palms, avoid eyes and lips
SerumStronger, leave-on2–3 nights a weekA few drops, then moisturiser
Clinic peelStrongestOnly by a professionalNot a home product

How to use a glycolic acid toner on your face

At night, after cleansing, on dry skin: a few drops on a cotton pad or in your palms, swept or pressed over the face away from the eyes and lips. Leave it on, wait a minute, then moisturiser. Two to three nights a week at first, never on retinol nights, sunscreen every morning.

We do not make a glycolic toner. If you use one alongside the Brightening Face Wash, rinse with water on toner nights so you are not putting two glycolic products on in one evening.

Side effects of glycolic acid

Tingling for a few seconds is normal. Lasting stinging, redness, peeling, a shiny tight look or sudden sensitivity to products you used to tolerate are signs of over-exfoliation: stop for a few days and restart less often. Glycolic acid also makes skin more sensitive to the sun for about a week after use, so daily SPF is part of using it.

On brown skin, irritation is not just uncomfortable: an inflamed patch can leave a dark mark that lasts longer than the dullness you were treating. Slow is faster here. Do not use glycolic acid on broken, sunburnt or freshly waxed or threaded skin.

Can glycolic acid cause breakouts?

A leave-on glycolic toner or serum can cause a short purge in the first weeks, in the places you normally break out, because it speeds up shedding. A rinse-off wash stays on too briefly to purge. New spots in new places, or with burning and rash, are a reaction, and that product should stop.

Glycolic acid in pregnancy

Low-strength glycolic acid in skincare is widely considered one of the lower-risk actives in pregnancy, and is often suggested in place of retinol. Ask your doctor before starting, and avoid clinic-strength peels while pregnant.

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Common questions

FAQs

A glycolic face wash can be used morning and night. A leave-on toner or serum should start at two to three nights a week and only increase if your skin stays comfortable.

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Face Wash in Pakistan

Choose a face wash by skin type, because a cleanser is on your skin for under a minute and its job is to clean without leaving you tight. For oily, dull skin, the Brightening Face Wash: 3% glycolic acid with 3% niacinamide, on sale now. For pimples and clogged pores, a 2% salicylic acid wash, and for dry or sensitive skin a fragrance-free, soap-free gel; both are arriving and not yet on sale.

Also see: Glycolic Acid in Pakistan